Winter Squash: Growing, Harvesting, Using
Winter squash need room to roam and fertile, nitrogen-rich soil. In general, they should be spaced about 4 feet apart, though spacing varies depending on the variety you are growing. If you’re short on space, choose “bush” varieties, or provide a very sturdy trellis for squash plants to climb on.
Three Types of Squash
For growing and eating purposes, a winter squash is a winter squash, no matter what species of Cucurbita it is. All are native to the Americas and thrive in the heat of summer, and all are sweet and delicious. Generally, Butternut squash types (Cucurbita moschata) are productive, easy to grow, and store well. The Buttercup squash group (Cucurbita maxima) includes many heavier types—giant pumpkins are included in this group. These also store exceptionally well, and are very flavorful. Acorn squash types (Cucurbita pepo) are more delicate in taste, and don’t store as well as the other two species; this group also includes many gourds.
Cucurbita moschata L to R: Butternut squashes range in size from 4-6 inches to twice that size. Heirloom ‘Long Island Cheese’ pumpkins are popular for pies and store well. ‘Autumn Frost’ butternuts are mid-sized, rich in flavor, and store for 4 months.
Cucurbita maxima L to R: ‘Red Kuri’ squash is a smallish winter squash with thin skin and a rich, sweet flavor. ‘Burgess Buttercup’ is a 3- 5 pound heirloom. Kabocha squashes generally weigh 4-5 pounds, have an nutty-sweet flavor, and store very well.
Cucurbita pepo L to R: This group includes zucchini, but also winter squashes and pumpkins, such as small and tasty ‘Festival’ acorn squash. ‘Thelma Sanders’ is a cream colored heirloom bearing 2-3 pounds fruits known for their excellent flavor. Decorative and delicious ’Mini Jack’ pumpkins are also in this group.
Growing Tips
Winter squashes need full sun, rich soil, and warm temperatures. Wait to plant until night temperatures are consistently above 50F (10C). You can sow seeds directly in the soil, sowing 4 to 5 seeds in mounds spaced at least 4 feet apart. Thin to 3 seedlings per mound when seedlings have several sets of leaves.
Protect young seedlings from bird and insect damage by covering them with row cover or screening until they are sturdy.
You can let your squash roam on the ground, or, if space is limited, construct a sturdy trellis for them to climb on.
One way to ensure that your squash is getting a steady diet of nutrients is to start with a cover crop. Plant winter rye in fall or, if you can wait until June to plant your squash, sow an early spring crop of oats. Cut the grass down a couple of weeks before planting squash seeds or seedlings, and add a layer of chopped up leaves or straw to keep weeds down. As these layers break down, the residues will release nutrients, feeding your squash plants with every rain.
Harvesting and Storing Squash
Wait to harvest winter squash until the vines die back, and the rind is tough enough so that a thumbnail does not puncture it. It’s best to leave about 2 inches of stem attached. Let the fruits cure in the sun for about a week, and them store them in a cool, dry place. The ideal temperature range for storage is between 50 and 60F (10 to 15C).
Some squash, including buttercup, butternut, and kabocha, actually get sweeter after a few weeks of storage.
Preparing Winter Squash
The easiest, and perhaps the best way to prepare winter squash is to roast it, skin side up, in a 400 oven. Cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds, then coat with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 45 too 60 minutes, or until the squash is very soft and browning on the bottom.
You can also cut peeled squash in chunks for roasting or boiling, then use the roasted squash cubes in creamy soups or hearty stews, or even in winter salads.